Bosch Drill Drivers

Bosch GSR12-2 12v | Bosch GSR12-23 12v | Bosch PSB12VE-2 12v | Bosch PSR 12v | Bosch GSR Tough 14.4v | Bosch PSR14Li-2 Lithium Ion 14.4v  | Bosch PSR 14.4v  | Bosch GSR 18v | Bosch PSR18-2 Li-Ion 18v | Bosch PSR 18v | Bosch PSR18VE-2 18v

Bosch GSR144-23 14.4v Drill Driver

Bosch GSR144-23 14.4v Drill Driver

Bosch GSR14.4-23 Drill Driver 14.4V: A small and versatile 14.4V Drill Driver for work in tight spaces and overhead. Lightweight but powerful. Includes lock-on switch.


Specifications:
No Load Speed: 0-400/1400rpm
Capacity In Steel: 12 mm
Capacity In Wood: 26 mm
No. Torque Settings: 5 Torque Settings + Drilling
Electric Brake: Yes
Drill Speed: 2-Speed Variable & Reverse
No.of Batteries: 3 x 1.5Ah Ni-Cd Batteries
Charge Time: 2 hr
Chuck Type: 10mm Keyless Chuck
Weight (incl.batteries): 1.6 kg

Great examples of 12v Cordless Drill Drivers include the Black & Decker CD12CA 12v Drill Driver, Bosch PSR 12v Drill Driver, DeWalt DC727KA 12v Drill Driver, Hitachi 12DVF3 12v Drill Driver, Makita 312DWDE3 12v Drill Driver, plus the Ryobi CHD1201 12v Drill Driver


In the event that 14.4v Cordless Drill Drivers are better suited, then be sure to check out the Black & Decker CP142KB 14.4v Drill Driver, Bosch PSR14Li-2 Lithium Ion 14.4v Drill Driver, DeWalt DC757KA 14.4v Drill Driver, the Hitachi DSDL Li-Ion 14.4v Drill Driver,Makita BDF441RFE 14.4v Drill Driver, and the Ryobi CCD-1441 14.4v Drill Driver


To adapt to your 18v Cordless Drill Drivers needs, why not view Black & Decker CD18CA 18v, Bosch PSR18-2 Li-Ion 18v, DeWalt DC920KB 18v, Hitachi DS18DL 18v, the Makita 6390DZ 18v or the Ryobi CCD-181M One+ 18v



The biggest benefit of the cordless drill driver over its powered partner is the freedom to be utilized anywhere, the downside of a battery drill is the harder you work the drill the quicker the battery runs out, so you have to make sure that you are buying the right voltage cordless drill driver for the job, there is no point in investing money into a 12 volt drill and expecting it to be able to drill fifty 16mm holes from one set of batteries because it won’t.

An Angle Drill is designed for use in tight areas. Their main feature is the angled neck. Unlike a conventional drill, an Angle Drills profile allows the drill to be utilized at arms length and in areas where the body of a drill would not allow it access. While they may not be able to deliver the power and torque of a conventional drill they are incredibly handy tools, especially around the home. An example would be drilling a hole on the inside of a drawer to mount a handle, positioning a normal drill could be awkward but the body of an Angle Drill would rise out of the drawer leaving plenty of space for the operators hand.

An adjustable clutch is what separates electric from cordless drill drivers. Located just behind the chuck, the clutch disengages the drive shaft of the drill, making a clicking sound, when a preset level of resistance is reached. The result is that the motor is still turning, but the screwdriver bit isn't. A clutch offers you control so you don't strip a screw or overdrive it once it's snug. It also helps protect the motor when a lot of resistance is met in driving a screw or tightening a bolt. The number of separate clutch settings varies on the drill; better drill drivers have at least 24 settings. With that many clutch settings, you might really fine-tune the power a drill driver delivers. Settings with the lowest numbers are for small screws, higher numbers are for larger screws. Many clutches also have a drill setting, which allows the motor to drive the bit at full power.

The chuck is the attachment where the bit is inserted, having jaws that grip the bit. Drills come in 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" sizes. This measurement is the chuck size and indicates the shaft diameter of the bits and accessories that may fit the drill. Chucks can be keyed (the jaws are tightened or loosened with a key) or keyless (the chuck might be tightened or loosened by hand). Keyless chucks offer two major benefits. If you have ever misplaced or lost a chuck key, you already know one of them. A keyless chuck may also allow bits to be changed more quickly. A real plus when you need to change from a drill bit to a screwdriver bit repeatedly or if you happen to be wearing gloves on the job. You can change the chuck in some keyless models with only one hand because the shaft locks when the trigger is off. In many models, however, you have to use both hands to turn the chuck in opposite directions. While you're in the shop change the bit on different drill drivers to see what style of keyless chuck you prefer.

Depending on the choice of material for the anode, cathode, and electrolyte the voltage, capacity, life, and safety of a lithium ion battery might change dramatically. Lithium ion batteries are not to be confused with lithium batteries, the key difference being that lithium batteries are primary batteries containing metallic lithium while lithium-ion batteries are secondary batteries containing an intercalation anode material. Lithium-ion batteries can be formed into a wide variety of shapes and sizes so as to efficiently fill available space in the devices they power. Li-ion batteries are lighter than other equivalent secondary batteries, often much lighter.

Check out drill drivers in DIY centres noting their weight and balance. Try out vertical and horizontal drilling positions to see how comfortable you feel. Contoured grips and rubber cushioning on some models make them very comfortable, even when you're applying direct palm pressure. While you're at it, see how easy it is to change clutch settings and operate the keyless chuck.

When drilling deep or large holes, it is best to drill a small pilot hole first. This is very helpful when drilling deep holes because it's sometimes easier to keep the hole straight with a smaller bit. A larger bit may then normally follow the pilot hole. When drilling larger holes, especially in metal, the pilot hole opens an area in the metal to accommodate the tip of the larger bit so the cutting surfaces might more easily reach the uncut metal. Once you've drilled your hole, you'll probably find a burr on the back surface of your material. This might be removed by lightly drilling the back side of the hole with a larger bit. If the material is thin, such as sheet metal, instead of a burr you may find the material is actually distorted leaving a ragged hole. This be prevented by sandwiching the material between two pieces of wood before you drill the hole. As with all tools, exercise caution, wear safety equipment and learn to use the tools properly.

There may be occasions when you have to drill a hole at an angle. In these cases drill carefully. You might draw a pencil line on the material noting the angle and then try to follow that pencil guide as you drill. There are also angle guides you might use. Place these over the spot you want drilled with the guide calibrated at the correct angle. Insert the drill bit into the guide and drill away. If you are drilling completely through the material when the drill bit begins to exit out the other side of the material be careful, especially with wood. The drill bit exiting the wood might splinter the wood around the exit point. If it may show, you might want to sand it smooth. Better yet prevent the splintering by covering the exit point with masking or duct tape. The tape may decrease if not prevent the splintering.

Also known as a wood or dowel bit, a spur point bit has a central point and two raised spurs that help keep the bit drilling straight. The bit cuts timber very fast when utilized in a power drill and leaves a clean sided hole. They are ideal for drilling holes for dowels as the sides of the holes are clean and parallel. Sizes range from 3 to 10mm. Spur point bits may only be utilized for drilling wood or some plastics. Sharpen the point and spurs with a fine file or edge of a fine grindstone; the angle between the point and spurs may be 90°.

DIY Safety tips:

If a fuse blows for no obvious reason or an appliance is not working properly, switch off the appliance at the socket and unplug it before trying to find out why. If the fault can't be found or you are uncertain how to find the fault, get expert advice. The same principles apply to fuse boxes or circuit breakers - always switch off at the mains before you investigate and remember to replace the cover before switching back on.
When fixing or checking electrical appliances or connections, always switch off the power and remove the fuse or circuit breaker (MCB). If you're fixing an electrical appliance, switch off the appliance at the socket and pull out the plug. Wear rubber-soled shoes when working on electrics. Cover electrical switches which are broken. Switch off at the mains and remove the fuse to that line, and keep it with you, so even if the power is switched on accidentally the line may stay dead and not you, while you carry out a job. The tapes are a reminder for you and a warning to others. Call in professional help if you do not know what you are doing.

Don't wait until disaster strikes to find your stop-cocks and gate valves. Opening and closing them four times a year may ensure they easily work when you need them to. Don't let a blown fuse leave you in the dark: keep a repair kit near your mains fuse box, with a torch - check the batteries regularly - screwdrivers, spare fuses, bulbs and fuse wire, rubber gloves and insulated pliers, a trimming knife and insulating tape.

RCD's (Residual Current Devices) might respond to alterations in the flow of electric current. For example, when a flex or cable is cut or an electric tool malfunctions, and direct contact is made with a mains supply conductor and earth, the RCD automatically disconnecting the power supply to the equipment to reduce the risk of you being electrocuted. RCD's are available as portable adaptors, can be incorporated in socket outlets, as separate stand alone units for fixed wiring installations offering whole house protection or as modular units for use in household consumer units. However, although RCD's are a vital safety aid, they cannot guarantee 100% protection. Even with them in your home, isn't it better to make a long term investment in good safety practice by looking after appliances such as hedge cutters, hedge trimmers, chainsaws, drill drivers and sanders.

If you have any doubts whatsoever about how to safely use any material, or equipment, ask the manufacturer or supplier.

 
July 30, 2010
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