Bosch Drill Drivers

Bosch GSR12-2 12v | Bosch GSR12-23 12v | Bosch PSB12VE-2 12v | Bosch PSR 12v | Bosch GSR Tough 14.4v | Bosch PSR14Li-2 Lithium Ion 14.4v  | Bosch PSR 14.4v  | Bosch GSR 18v | Bosch PSR18-2 Li-Ion 18v | Bosch PSR 18v | Bosch PSR18VE-2 18v

Bosch PSR14li-2 Li-Ion 14.4v Drill Driver

Bosch PSR14li-2 Li-Ion 14.4v Drill Driver

The new Bosch PSR 14.4 Lithium Ion Drill/Driver is a tough and poweful 14.4 Volt Lithium-ion Cordless Drill/Driver featuring lithium-ion battery technology which indicates that the tool is always ready to use, has no memory effect and minimal self-discharge. The smaller battery creates a lighter tool and is easy to use. Cordless tools provide a practical solution to the limitations of corded power tools. They can be used for outdoor use without the need of a power source nearby and they take away the danger of cutting through a live cable.

Features
* 25 power settings for perfect control plus 1 drill setting
* Slow down or speed up the task with variable speed , choose between 2 speeds: 0-370 / 1150 rpm
* Drilling capacity: Steel 10mm / Wood 28mm
* Built-in display provides information about optimum material-dependent application (speed and torque setting) and charging state
* Bosch Electronic Speed Control
* Rotary action for drilling metal, wood, plasterboard and breeze block
* Keyless Auto lock chuck
* Weight 1.7kg
* Comes with carrying case and 1 hour charger


Wonderful examples of 12v Cordless Drill Drivers include the Black & Decker CD12CA 12v, Bosch GSR12-2 12v, DeWalt DC772KLV 12v, Hitachi 12DVF3 12v, Makita 6319DWDE3 12v, plus the Ryobi CHD1202 12v

In Case 14.4v Cordless Drill Drivers are more suitable, then be sure to peruse the Black & Decker CD14CA 14.4v Drill Driver, Bosch PSR 14.4v Drill Driver, DeWalt DC757KB 14.4v Drill Driver, the Hitachi DS14DVF3 14.4v Drill Driver,Makita BHP441RFE 14.4v Drill Driver, and the Ryobi CCD-1441 14.4v Drill Driver


For all your your 18v Cordless Drill Drivers desires, go ahead and review the Black & Decker CD18CA 18v, Bosch PSR 18v, DeWalt 920KB 18v, Hitachi DS18DMR 18v, the Makita BDF451RFE 18v or the Ryobi CCD-181M One+ 18v


The main positive of the cordless drill driver over its powered partner is the freedom to be used anywhere, the downside of a battery drill is the harder you work the drill the faster the battery runs out, so you have to make sure that you are buying the right voltage cordless drill driver for the job, there is no point in investing money into a 12 volt drill and expecting it to be able to drill fifty 16mm holes from one set of batteries because it won’t.

The Hammer Drill is not only able to provide a rotary motion but may also apply a small amount of hammer action to the drill bit, as though someone was tapping the back of the drill while the bit was spinning. This enables the drill to work through masonry. A Hammer Drill may typically have the ability to switch the hammer action off and on as required. You may find that motor wattages start around 600w for this type of drill and a good idea is to look at machines with around a 700w motor, these may enable you to drill masonry with up to a 16mm bit. This type of drill is a good all rounder for the home.

Before cordless drill drivers arrived, many drills had pistol grips, where the handle is behind the motor like the handle of a gun. But many of today's cordless models are equipped with a T-handle: The handle base flares to stop hand slippage and accommodate a battery. Because the battery is centered under the weight and bulk of the motor, a T-handle provides better overall balance, particularly in heavier drills. Also, T-handle drills may often get into tighter spaces because your hand is out of the way in the centre of the drill. But for heavy-duty drilling and driving large screws, a pistol grip does let you apply pressure higher up — almost directly behind the bit — allowing you to put more strain on the work.

Factors such as temperature, the material being drilled, whether the drilling is nonstop or intermittent, and the whether the battery is at full charge or not may affect a cordless drill driver's battery charge. The standard time required to charge a battery pack may vary from one hour to overnight, depending on the type of tool and charger. Recharge when the drop in performance and power is noticeable. Don't wait until the tool quits working to recharge the battery.

Lithium ion batteries are commonly used in consumer electronics and tools such as drill drivers. They are currently one of the many popular types of battery for portable electronics, with one of the best energy-to-weight ratios, no memory effect, and a slow loss of charge when not in use. In addition to uses for consumer electronics, lithium-ion batteries are growing in popularity for defence, automotive, and aerospace applications due to their high energy density. However certain kinds of mistreatment may cause Li-ion batteries to explode.

If a Li-ion battery is stored with too low a charge, there is a risk of allowing the charge to drop below the battery's low-voltage threshold, resulting in an unrecoverable dead battery. Once the charge has dropped to this level, recharging it may be hazardous. Some batteries therefore feature an internal safety circuit which may stop charging in this state, and the battery may be for all practical purposes dead. In circumstances where a second Li-ion battery is available for a given device, it is recommended that the unused battery be discharged to 40% and placed in the refrigerator to prolong its shelf life. While the battery may be used or charged immediately, some Li-ion batteries may provide more energy when brought to room temperature.

Drilling a hole isn't rocket science but it may be quite frustrating if you don't know how to do it. For example, if you try to use a wood auger bit to drill a hole in metal you'll ruin the bit, score the metal and possibly injure yourself in the process. Drilling a hole correctly, however, is something you may easily accomplish with a little practice.

A drill without a drill bit is useless. A drill bit is the piece at the end of the drill that does the actual drilling. Drill bits come in a wide variety of sizes (diameter) and length. First you have to insert the bit into the drill. The end of the drill’s barrel has an opening. Insert the dull end of the drill bit into this hole. Now you have to tighten the drill bit into this hole so the bit is secure and does not come free. This is accomplished in one of two ways. The many traditional way is to use a chuck key. The chuck key is a small piece of petal shaped in a right angle. One piece of the key fits into the tightening collar around the bit. There is a hole there for that purpose. Then you simply turn the key clockwise tightening the collar over the bit. Turn it clockwise to tighten. Turn it counter-clockwise to loosen the collar and free the bit. When you do this make certain the drill is unplugged from its power source. This is a safety precaution. The second way does not include a chuck key. Instead there are usually two tightening collars. The bit is inserted in the outer most collar. Grasp this collar with one hand holding it steady. With a small bit of power provided by squeezing the trigger the loose collar spins freely and tightens the bit into the collar. If you want to tighten the bit the collar must spin clockwise. If you want to loosen the bit the collar must turn counter-clockwise. The direction of the collar’s spin is determined by moving a switch on the drill usually located nearby the trigger. Now your drill is ready to go. You now have the correct bit size and it is securely settled into the drill. You are ready to drill. First make certain the bit is the suitable material for the material you are drilling. Select a bit manufactured for metal if you are drilling through metal and select a bit manufactured for wood when drilling through wood. Using the incorrect bit may damage the bit and perhaps not accomplish the task. Using a wood bit on metal often does not penetrate the metal. When you have marked on the material to be drilled where you want the hole mark it with a pencil or marker with a dot or ‘x’. Place the drill bit exactly on the mark, squeeze the drill trigger and give just the slightest push to the drill. Let the drill do the work. Be patient and don’t strain the drill bit through the hole. Try to keep the drill as perpendicular to the material as possible.

Although not a true 'drill', countersink bits are used in a power or hand drill to form the conical recess for the heads of countersunk screws. These bits tend to be manufactured for use on soft materials such as timber and plastics, not metals. When used with a power drill to counter sink an existing hole, the bit tends to 'chatter', leaving a rough surface. Better results may be obtained if the countersink bit is used before the hole is drilled, then take care to ensure that the hole is in the centre of the countersunk depression. Countersinks are available with fitted handles so that they may be used by hand twisting, often easier than changing the bit in the drill when only a relatively few holes need countersinking. Sharpening may be difficult, but may be done with a fine triangular file. Tile bits are those bits used for drilling ceramic tiles and glass. They have a ground tungsten carbide tip. They may be used with a hand drill, but are best used in a variable speed power drill on a slow speed. When drilling glass, some form of lubricant (i.e. turpentine or white spirit) might be used to keep the tip cool. Ceramic tiles may also be drilled using a masonry bit if it is used at slow speed and without hammer action. Sharpening is difficult because of the hard tungsten carbide and curved cutting edge. With care and patience, a blunt edge may be made good using an oilstone. Intended for power drill use only, the centre point locates the bit and the flat steel on either side cuts away the timber.

DIY Safety tips:

New appliances have to be supplied with a plug that is fused in accordance with manufacturers' instructions. Always follow manufacturers' recommendations for fuses, or seek expert help. Check older appliances such as electric blankets and Christmas tree lights.
When fixing or checking electrical appliances or connections, always switch off the power and remove the fuse or circuit breaker (MCB). If you're fixing an electrical appliance, switch off the appliance at the plug and pull out the plug. Wear rubber-soled shoes when working on electrics. Cover electrical switches which are broken. Switch off at the mains and remove the fuse to that line, and keep it with you, so even if the power is switched on accidentally the line may stay dead and not you, while you carry out a job. The tapes are a reminder for you and a warning to others. Call in professional help if you do not know what you are doing.

Keep your head: if any of your tools has a loose head or handle, replace the whole tool or have it repaired by a professional. Keep a tool box tidy for easy access and always use the cover guards which come with tools such as saws, knives and chisel blades. Buy equipment and household appliances which are made to a British or European standard or carry an approved product quality and safety mark. There may be a label on the product.

Take extra care with old paint. Some old paint could give off harmful dust and pose a poisoning hazard if ingested by small children. You must not burn off old paint or rub it down with dry sandpaper or a power sander; you might clean up properly, using a high efficiency industrial vacuum cleaner with heavy duty filters. Have a basic First Aid kit accessible.

Be sure to double check the safety and condition of any working platform. Make sure that it may not move or give way. Never use ladders on top of working platforms.


 
July 30, 2010
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