Bosch Drill Drivers

Bosch PSR 14.4v Drill Driver

The new Bosch PSR 14.4 v is a small and light 14.4 Volt Drill/Driver. The smaller battery creates a lighter tool and is easy to use. Cordless tools provide a practical solution to the limitations of corded power tools. They can be used for outdoor use without the need of a power source nearby and they take away the danger of cutting through a live cable.

Features
* 25 power settings for perfect control plus 1 drill setting
* Slow down or speed up the task with variable speed , choose between 2 speeds: 0-370 / 1150 rpm
* Drilling capacity: Steel 10mm / Wood 28mm
* Built-in display provides information about optimum material-dependent application (speed and torque setting) and charging state
* Bosch Electronic Speed Control
* Rotary action for drilling metal, wood, plasterboard and breeze block
* Keyless Auto lock chuck
* Weight 1.7kg
* Comes with carrying case and 1 hour charger

Excellent examples of 12v Cordless Drill Drivers include the Black & Decker CD12CA 12v, Bosch GSR12-2 12v, DeWalt DC772KLV 12v, Hitachi 12DVF3 12v, Makita 6319DWDE3 12v, and the Ryobi CHD1201 12v

In Case 14.4v Cordless Drill Drivers are more your thing, then be sure to check out the Black & Decker CP142KB 14.4v, Bosch PSR 14.4v, DeWalt DC728KA 14.4v[/LINK], the Hitachi DSDL Li-Ion 14.4v,Makita BHP442RFE14.4v, and the Ryobi CCD-1441 14.4v

To adapt to your 18v Cordless Drill Drivers requirements, why not view Black & Decker CD18CA 18v, Bosch PSR18VE-2 18v, DeWalt DC920KB 18v, Hitachi DS18DMR 18v, the Makita BDF452z 18v or the Ryobi CHP-1802M One+ 18v

Cordless drill drivers are significantly safer than corded or electric power tools as there is no power lead for you to trip or fall over. Cordless power tools are much more accessible than corded tools as they allow you go anywhere and work in places that would ordinarily be inaccessible due to there being no power plug. Cordless drill drivers are becoming increasingly small and compact in design and are extremely easy to move around and transport. However, the size and weight of a cordless drill driver may vary depending on the battery type. Technological developments have allowed power tool manufacturers to produce cordless drill drivers that have the same voltage and power capacity as electric corded drill drivers.

An SDS (Special Direct System) drill uses a unique type of chuck that does not require any tightening. The special SDS drill bits simply slot into place and are held until released. Hammer action is available on SDS type drills, however it is achieved using a slightly different method over the more traditional Hammer Drill. The SDS drill bit moves within the chuck itself rather than the more conventional method of having the whole chuck move. This is due to the way the SDS drill bit is held within the chuck. The SDS drill bit has short grooves running along the length of its body that the chuck clips into. These grooves allow the bit to move in and out and when force is applied to the end of the bit within the chuck the bit is forced out slightly creating the hammer action. Some SDS Drills have rotary stop which is able to turn off the rotary action and leave just hammer action allowing the drill to be used as a breaker or demolition hammer with a suitable chisel bit. Drills come in two standard sizes and they are SDS Plus (10mm) and SDS-Max (18mm). These sizes relate the size of the shank. SDS Plus is the many common and can withstand a hammer of up to 4Kg, and SDS Max for hammers over 5Kg. SDS Plus grips the drill bit in two places whereas SDS Max grip in three places. With the SDS drill you can use a chuck adaptor that when used enables the use of standard drill bits for rotary drilling. It is wise to avoid SDS Drills that do not have a safety clutch. If the drill bit jams and is unable to turn a safety clutch will stop the drill body from spinning. This spinning can cause severe damage to the wrist and arm with the possibility of the drill being yanked from your hand, jumping out of the hole and coming into contact with a part of the body. A safety clutch should be high on your list of required features.

An adjustable clutch is what separates electric from cordless drill drivers. Located just behind the chuck, the clutch disengages the drive shaft of the drill, making a clicking sound, when a preset level of resistance is reached. The result is that the motor is still turning, but the screwdriver bit isn't. A clutch provides you control so you don't strip a screw or overdrive it once it's tight. It also helps protect the motor when a lot of resistance is met in driving a screw or tightening a bolt. The number of separate clutch settings varies on the drill; better drill drivers have at least 24 settings. With that many clutch settings, you can really fine-tune the power a drill driver delivers. Settings with the lowest numbers are for small screws, higher numbers are for larger screws. Most clutches also have a drill setting, which allows the motor to drive the bit at full power.

The chuck is the attachment where the bit is inserted, having jaws that grip the bit. Drills come in 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" sizes. This measurement is the chuck size and indicates the shaft diameter of the bits and accessories that will fit the drill. Chucks can be keyed (the jaws are tightened or loosened with a key) or keyless (the chuck can be tightened or loosened by hand). Keyless chucks offer two major benefits. If you have ever misplaced or lost a chuck key, you already know one of them. A keyless chuck will also allow bits to be changed more quickly. A real plus when you need to change from a drill bit to a screwdriver bit repeatedly or should you happen to be wearing gloves on the job. You can change the chuck in some keyless models with only one hand because the shaft locks when the trigger is off. In many models, however, you have to use both hands to turn the chuck in opposite directions. While you're in the shop change the bit on different drill drivers to see what style of keyless chuck you prefer.

All cordless drill drivers come with a battery charger, with recharge times ranging from 15 minutes to three hours. But faster isn't necessarily better. A contractor might depend on fast recharges, but slower recharging isn't usually a concern at home, especially should you have two batteries. What's more, there are drawbacks to fast charging. A speedy recharge can damage a battery by generating excessive heat, unless it's a specially manufactured unit. If you want a speedy recharge, go with a tool from Makita, Hitachi or Panasonic, whose "smart" chargers are equipped with temperature sensors and feedback circuitry that protect batteries. These units provide a charge in as little as nine minutes without battery damage.

If a Li-ion battery is stored with too low a charge, there is a risk of allowing the charge to drop below the battery's low-voltage threshold, resulting in an unrecoverable dead battery. Once the charge has dropped to this level, recharging it can be hazardous. Some batteries therefore feature an internal safety circuit which will stop charging in this state, and the battery will be for all practical purposes dead. In circumstances where a second Li-ion battery is available for a given device, it is recommended that the unused battery be discharged to 40% and placed in the refrigerator to prolong its shelf life. While the battery can be used or charged immediately, some Li-ion batteries will provide more energy when brought to room temperature.

For many applications around the house a small set of common twist bits will normally serve your needs. You'll also need a drill to turn the bits and some tools to measure and mark where you want the hole. This includes a ruler or tape measure, a pencil or scribe and should working with metal, a centre punch and a hammer. The first and most important step is marking where you want the hole. You can also use a scribe on wood or plastic. Sometimes even a pencil will work well. As long as you can see your marks and they don't rub off when working your material it doesn't normally matter. Without a punch mark, the bit would drift around. If it did eventually catch, it would quite likely be in the incorrect location.

To drill a satisfactory hole in any material, the correct type of drill bit must be used; it must be used correctly and be sharpened as suitable. Many jobs around the house require a hole of some kind to be drilled - whether it is putting up a shelf, building a cabinet or hanging a light fitting. For basic requirements, a set of high-speed steel twist bits and some masonry bits will probably be sufficient for the average handyman. But for more sophisticated jobs/material, others bits will be required - perhaps larger, or manufactured for a specific material/purpose. Good quality drill bits can be expensive, so take care of them, keep them in a case or box should possible, rather than allowing them to roll around loose in a toolbox where the cutting edges may be damaged.

Twist bits are available coated with Titanium nitride (TiN). These are easily identified by the gold like colour. This coating increases the hardness of the bit and adds a self-lubricating property. The coating is only really effective when metal is being drilled, it has little effect when working with other materials. Twist bits are usually available in sizes 0.8-12 mm plus. They are manufactured for drilling relatively small holes and they sometimes tend to clog quickly especially when the wood is 'green'. When drilling deep holes (especially in hardwood) the bits should be withdrawn regularly to remove the waste. Special care is required when using the smallest sizes since these bits are thin and brittle. Always hold the drill square to the work and apply only light pressure when drilling. To sharpen use a drill sharpener, a grindstone jig or an oilstone. Titanium nitride bits cannot be sharpened without destroying the coating (although should the drill needs sharpening, the coating will probably have already been destroyed). Forming the correct angle at the tip is important for efficient cutting.

DIY Safety tips:

If a fuse blows for no obvious reason or an appliance is not working properly, turn off the appliance at the plug and unplug it before trying to find out why. If the fault can't be found or you are uncertain how to find the fault, get expert advice. The same principles apply to fuse boxes or circuit breakers - always turn off at the mains before you investigate and remember to replace the cover before switching back on.
When painting, or using any material that generates toxic fumes or dust, keep the room well ventilated. Never smoke while painting or standing close to a freshly painted area.

Keep your head: should any of your tools has a loose head or handle, replace the whole tool or have it repaired by a professional. Keep a tool box tidy for easy access and always use the cover guards which come with tools such as saws, knives and chisel blades. Buy equipment and household appliances which are made to a British or European standard or carry an approved product quality and safety mark. There will be a label on the product.

New appliances have to be supplied with a plug that is fused in accordance with manufacturers' instructions. Always follow manufacturers' recommendations for fuses, or seek expert advice. Check older appliances such as electric blankets and Christmas tree lights. If a fuse blows for no obvious reason or an appliance is not working properly, turn off the appliance at the plug and unplug it before trying to find out why. The same principles apply to fuse boxes or circuit breakers - always turn off at the mains before you investigate and remember to replace the cover before switching back on. If you need to change a mains fuse, check the correct rating for that circuit - the blown fuse might have been incorrect in the first place. Using a thicker fuse wire than the correct rating is hazardous.

When working in the vacinity of electrical items or cables, make sure the electricity supply is off and the fuse removed . Be sure that others cannot inadvertently re connect the supply.